I often get to the centre of Hanoi by bus and let the sights drift by my windows. As a matter of fact, I don't take much notice of the surroundings until I get inside the bustling and going of Hanoian centre. But there is one thing that finally finds it way into my blood and soul: the old quater streets, just on the outside of the city, flanking a part of Red River dyke. Things have changed much now but I believe the antique and elegant ambiance of Hanoi is sublimed here in old streets with old houses and old commodities. Just take a step back and inmagine what it used to be, right where you are standing, in the narrow street, with quiet house, scattered with people walking back and fro in the least busy time of day. Hanoi old streets used to be filled with small tunnel houses making a row along the road. They are called "tunnel" because of its special structure: houses are 3 meters wide by 60 meters long, the forefront is used for selling commodities, then comes the open courtyard to let in the light, and finally the main living part. The streets are named after the goods displayed there, for example "hang bac" for silver,"hang quat" for fan etc..and then coined the phrase " 36 streets". In fact, there are now around 70 streets in this area but the phrase has gained historical meaning. Residents here used to migrated from many parts of the country and formed many guilds, each majoring in a particular goods. They also brought with them religion and built up pagodas and temples. Most of these houses are covered with small tiles which have the characteristics of two wall of the gable being built so that they are higher than the roof, resembling a staircase with two funny pinnacles. But now there could only be traces of the past lingering in left old houses, temples, the famous old city gate, the citadel. The quater's econmic activities have done a lot of changes. Normally the streets awake at 5.30 with people exercising up and down, then at 6.00 am, vendors, restaurants and small makeshift shops are open for breakfast, and become quiet late at 900pm. Many multi-storey houses are built. One interesting feature of these houses is while the groundfloor is often modified to display modern goods, the upper floors are often left intact. And this brings in a special feeling as you walk down the streets, sapping the ancient air as you contemplate moss-grown citadel bricks or the Old City Gate .... intertwined with countless shops and other modern features due to the tourism flourish. It is the deep meditating recollections mixed with enjoyable excitment, the relaxed nostalgia mixed with an stiffling fear of being bit by bit losing something very valuable, something which could only be felt by your heart and soul.